Tahoe Rim Trail: Day 6

September 6, 2011: I awoke to the sound of some birds calling a wake up alarm and thus another day began. I slept decent during the night, and was hiking by 7:00am. It was a wonderful morning.

The scenery was more spectacular the further I walked this morning. The day began with a climb up Dick's Pass. I don't tend to mind climbs as much, for some reason they seem easier on the body than descents. There was still a rather large snow field at the pass.

The weather was just perfect and I hung around for a while at the top taking in the views. To the north stretched the PCT towards Donner Pass. To the south and west, the rest of Desolation Wilderness lay before me.

While descending from Dick's Pass, I ran into an older couple hiking north. The man had a long white beard, and his female companion looked trail hardened as well. "Are you hiking the rim?" I asked. "No, we are doing the PCT." I was shocked to see anyone still hiking the PCT this far south. As it turned out, they had done the entire trail, but had a few hundred more miles left to do from Lone Pine, to somewhere in Oregon. They had "flip flopped" which is a term used for thruhikers who hike the trail out of order, usually because of treacherous snow conditions. Since it was a high snow year in the Sierra, they chose to finish this section last. Their names were Forever and Ever. Always good to have a little trail talk during the day.

The beauty of the area continued to increase and I was grateful to see it from a south bounders point of view. Perhaps I was desensitized to the natural wonders at this point on the PCT last year. Now I was seeing it with fresh eyes and I was amazed. It resembled many areas along the Muir Trail, a little ways to the south.

Below is a patch of white mountain heather, one of Muir's favorite wildflowers that I mentioned in the previous post. They always seem to grow in the special places.

The day was warming up nicely and I was making good time to reach interstate 50 at a decent hour. I was now looking forward to reaching Lake Aloha for a mid day swim. It is a popular destination for many folks in the area, but so far, I only ran into one other hiking couple from Texas.

When I reached Lake Aloha, the sunlight was intense. I didn't see anybody else around. I went for a quick swim, the water was ice cold once again and absolutely exhilarating. Better yet, no flies harassed me afterwards. I was able to rest on a warm slab of granite and dry off in the sun.

After drying off, I continued my journey south. Temperatures really began to increase at this point. Many day hikers also began making their way from the Echo Lakes trail head to Lake Aloha. I only had a few more miles before reaching the 50, and I was making excellent time.

(Lake Aloha above)

I passed one local woman who asked how my hike was coming along. She informed me that this was probably going to be the hottest week of the entire summer. Most of the people I passed the rest of the afternoon looked exhausted and overheated. I felt the same way, covering exposed skin the best I could so not to inflict further sun damage and drinking plenty of water. Eventually, I reached the Echo Lakes Trail head and was surprised to see the store still open. I thought it was closed after Labor Day, and this was Tuesday, the day after. I was thrilled nonetheless, as I was able to purchase an ice cold Gatorade and and a Klondike bar. It hit the spot on this hot, sunny day. I still had about a mile and a half to go before reaching the 50. It's a mile and half through the woods through residential neighborhoods. At last I reached the road shortly after 3:30pm.

(Echo Lakes above)

I stuck out my thumb to hitch a ride into South Lake Tahoe for my second and last resupply. South Lake Tahoe is about 15 miles down the road. I waited and waited, burning in the sun along the highway. I know I'm ugly, but come on folks! It was taking much longer than usual to get a ride this time around. Finally, a young blond dread locked girl named Kat in a beat up old car pulled over and gave me a lift to town. Thank you Kat! She drove me to the "Y" in town and I walked to the Apex Inn where I stayed last year on the PCT. Clean rooms, hiker friendly, and very reasonable rates, I was glad to be back, and relieved they had a vacancy. I was able to shower, resupply, and watch some TV while getting prepared for the last leg of the trip. Once inside, I could feel how exhausted I was...

Tahoe Rim Trail: Day 5

September 5, 2011: I awoke in the middle of the night to a blackened sky. "Where are the stars?" I wondered. A couple of minutes later, it started to sprinkle. "Dammit, I've got to set up my tarp!" My timing was still off. The first night I attempted to cowboy camp, it started to rain. I had been having trouble sleeping every night so far on the trip. My legs ached horribly in the middle of the night. I was taking several Ibuprofen but that wasn't helping either. My hips ached and it felt like someone was trying to pull my spine out of my ass. My lower back was giving me trouble causing nerve pain down my legs and feet. I simply could not get comfortable at night.

Nevertheless, I had a late start the next morning hitting the trail at 9:00. Hiking in the morning always helped me feel better. Pretty soon, I remembered a small patch of Sierra primrose that I saw on the trail last year that I would soon be approaching. This flower stuck out in my mind because I think its more common in the Southern Sierra, and when I saw it last year, it had been a couple of weeks since I saw it last. Sure enough, there it was, growing in the same spot. Once again, I tried to get a picture of it that turned out blurry.

The trail offered amazing views of Desolation Wilderness. Again, my mind was transported to last year. I remember hiking this part in an exhausted state, looking for a place to set up camp because the sun had already set. I remember trying to camp next to the rock outcropping below, but could not find a place suitable to sleep.

Water was still abundant, and I walked through several breathtaking Sierra gardens. Colors were radiant.

Mosquitoes seemed to come and go, were worse in some places rather than others. This morning, the trail traversed through quite a bit of forest where mosquitoes seemed to congregate. I was still wearing my shorts and short sleeves, and swatting at intruders.

At one point in the morning, I crossed paths with the day hiker I had met the day before near Twin Peaks. He had parked his car at another section and was hiking towards me. Perhaps, we were both a bit ashamed of our negativity the day before, so our conversation was positive and enjoyable.

I came upon Richardson Lake, and decided to go for a swim. That always seems to improve my state of mind. The water was ice cold, but so incredibly refreshing. The trail had been extremely dusty, so I was happy to finally wash off a majority of the dirt that had started to accumulate on my body. A minute after getting out of the lake, I started to get swarmed by biting flies. They were everywhere, dive bombing me in every direction. I could barely get my clothes on. They would bite relentlessly if I paused for just a couple of seconds. I became frustrated again.

To make matters worse, chaffing was still a constant issue. It was becoming extremely painful to walk. I was not a happy camper. Eventually, I entered Desolation Wilderness. This is the most popular section on the trail, and as I mentioned before, a permit system has been established to limit the amount of people who use this part of trail. The first part of Desolation Wilderness for me (since I was hiking counter clockwise) is not very scenic. I was hiking through dense forest which is also kind of swampy, dark, moist, and filled with mosquitoes. I was battling frustration and irritability throughout the early afternoon.

I did manage to find an excellent lunch spot under a large, ancient Western Juniper tree. A grandfather of the wilderness. Mosquitoes were few and far between, a stiff cool breeze was blowing, and I had excellent views of some of the granite mountain peaks in the distance. It was a welcome reprieve.

Shortly after lunch, I met a couple of TRT hikers heading the opposite direction. One of them had hiked the PCT and the AT, and the other guy had hiked the AT and 500 miles of the PCT. It was nice to talk trail with these guys, and I was glad I'd see them again in a few days somewhere on the other side of the lake.

Later in the afternoon, my frustration hit a boiling point as I entered another mosquito ridden section of trail. I was reluctant to apply Deet on my sun burnt, and suntan lotion covered arms and legs. I was too stubborn to put on my rain jacket because I did not want to overheat while hiking. Why didn't I bring a comfortable long sleeved shirt? Why didn't I just hike in pants? How can I rid myself of this ever present, painful chaffing? What is that spot on my arm? Is it cancer? To my relief, the trail led me to another area of reprieve and I stopped for a break under another grandfather of the wilderness.

I looked around me and noticed how beat up the forest looked. Trees were mangled in every direction battling the elements. Granite boulders were strewn about. Plants were struggling to thrive in their given locations. "It ain't easy out here..." I said to the grandfather tree. I like to believe he was talking to me as he asked, "Who are you to feel entitled to perfect majestic views, glorious Sierra wildflower gardens, mosquito free hiking, flat trail, pristine lakes and streams around every corner? Look around you, no one has it easy. You must embrace all aspects of nature, and take the good with the bad, not just the good."

I pondered these words as I finished my Cliff Bar. That was all I needed to hear. The frustration, negative thoughts, and irritability melted away from that point on. I felt at peace and developed a plan to deal with the mosquitoes, rather than swat madly at them. After all, this is their home, the defenders of the wilderness! After putting on my pack, I entered another swampy, mosquito filled area. I was not the least bit frustrated. I wore my rain jacket, and my head net, and walked slowly so not to break a sweat. I thanked the grandfather tree was his advice, and thoroughly enjoyed the next few hours of hiking. Not only that, the trail became more beautiful the further I walked into the Desolation Wilderness.

In the evening, I came to Fontanillis Lake. I remembered this place from last year, but could not place the name. It was exquisite. Many of my favorite wildflowers were growing along its banks. The water reflected the silvery moon moving across the darkening, blue and purple sky. Snow still clung to the northern slopes, and I saw a patch of one of John Muir's favorite wildflowers, the white mountain heather (not pictured). I felt like Tom Hanks in the movie Cast Away saying, "I know you!!!" I'm not sure whether it's the flower I like so much, or that John Muir liked it so much. Nevertheless, it was a treat.

According to my permit, I had to reach Dick's Lake and camp for the night. I was quite tired, but was soaking in the wonder of the area. An exceptional evening of hiking.

Finally, I reached the lake, and set up camp along its shores. The alpine glow was in its final stages and I cooked a huge dinner under my tarp. At last, I was tuning into the moment, and thankful for another opportunity to hike. Tomorrow was going to be a big day, since I had to hike to interstate 50 and hopefully hitch into South Lake Tahoe before it became too late.

For now, I was grateful for the lessons of the day, and was hoping for a good nights sleep...

TRT: Day 4

(Top) My first dinner on the TRT: Mac and cheese and SPAM. I had been lugging around the can of SPAM for the last couple of days, and was glad to finally be able to not only eat a hot dinner, but also put a dent in the extra weight I was carrying as a result.

(Below)Waterfall near Ward Creek

Tahoe Rim Trail: Day 4

September 4, 2011: My mosquito friends delivered the wake up call at 6:30am again. I awoke to an interesting morning sky with checkered clouds. I had a few miles to go before entering the town of Tahoe City, where I planned to do my first of two resupplies for the trip.

To be honest, up to this point in the hike, I wasn't really having a good time. I'd say the pain to pleasure ratio was probably 70% pain, 30% pleasure. For the first time on any of the hikes I have done in the past, the thought of quitting actually entered my mind. I was battling a negativity that I've never encountered before. I wasn't sure if I really was up to this hike. I wanted to be lounging in the comfort of my house, access to a shower, my computer, and good food. I let the thoughts come and go.

Before entering Tahoe City, I crossed paths with a couple of college kids who were also hiking the Rim Trail in the opposite direction I was going. "See you on the other side," I said.

After an hour or so, the trail meandered out of the forest into Tahoe City. I needed to resupply, and hopefully charge my camera battery. I was feeling insecure this morning, and "town anxiety" was kicking in. I wasn't sure I had the confidence to get done what I needed to get done, in particular, find a place to recharge my camera battery.

Resupply was easy. There was a grocery store right in the middle of town, and I needed food for only three days. I did not have "hiker hunger" at this point, so I simply bought what I needed. The only extras I bought were an apple and a bottle of Gatorade. I was relieved to also buy some sun tan lotion. I left my bottle at home because I didn't want to carry the extra weight.

I walked around town a little to see what my options may be to recharge my camera battery. There was a cafe that was packed with tourists. I looked for signs of any outdoor electrical outlets. Naturally, my wandering led me to a quiet park where I decided to re-center myself. Just then, I saw an outdoor faucet, perfect for refilling my water bottles. Then I saw a public restroom which allowed me to clean up a little. There also was a large wooden building that I assumed was closed since it was Sunday. To my delight, it opened at 10:00am. When I walked inside, it was a museum. I asked the man at the front desk if I could recharge my battery using one of his outlets, he gave the OK, and suddenly, everything was right with the world once again. Thanks to the kindness of strangers, a little persistence and desperation, needs and wants are met. It was also a perfect quiet place to relax.

I gave Indie a call while the battery was recharging. It was nice to talk trail talk with him, even though he was home in New Jersey. He had actually just returned from a small PCT reunion in New York City where he met with Hojo, Wide Angle, Flyboy, Moosie, and Wide Angle's brother.

Once my town chores were done, I was back on the trail before lunch. While refilling my water bottles in a stream, a woman asked me where I was headed. After telling her I was hiking the rim, she informed me that she is Brenda, #18 on "the list" of Tahoe Rim hikers. The guide book has a list of all the people that have hiked the TRT starting in 1998. Brenda's name is the 18th on page 239. (Actually, I just checked and she is actually listed as number 20.)

Anyhow, this was supposed to be another long waterless section, so I filled up all of my bottles near Ward Creek, carrying another 12 pounds of water. While eating lunch, I talked briefly with a solo day hiker who was heading up towards Twin Peaks. The hike from Ward Creek was quite strenuous, the trail climbing in elevation. I had to dodge the occasional mountain biker flying down the mountainside.

The next couple of hours I was battling negative thoughts again. "Why am I doing this again? You call this fun? Your body is screaming in agony. You are filthy." Near the summit of Twin Peaks, I ran into the solo day hiker again as he was coming down. He must have tuned into my negative energy somehow. "I was going to hike to the top of Twin Peaks," the man said. "But then I thought, who cares? It's just another mountain and I've hiked to the top of hundreds of them already. It's the same view." We were a couple of Eeyore's hanging out near Tahoe.

While I was already thinking about what this trip was going to mean in the long run, I became nostalgic as the TRT combined with the PCT. It felt real good to see those letters and that symbol again. The supernatural PCT. I didn't recognize a single part of it the first couple of miles. I kept turning around to see if I recognized any of the views. I was solo doing this section last year, and I remember it being very trance like. I didn't realize how deep of a trance I had been in.

I had to chuckle to myself when the trail got really steep in some parts. I remember those cliffs where it seemed that one misstep would send you rolling hundreds of feet to the bottom of a boulder field. I remember Indie and I having conversations about this type of trail all the time up north. The good ol' PCT.

It wasn't until around evening that I finally recognized where I was. I was coming around a corner when I spotted a campsite that looked familiar. I remember seeing it first thing in the morning last year. "Gouda and Pepperjack where camped right over there, across the creek and were standing around a huge campfire..." I said to no one in particular. "That was an awesome campsite they had!" (Gouda and Pepperjack were a young college aged couple hiking the PCT last year. This was the last place I saw them until Crater Lake Oregon. They had decided to leave the trail at Crater Lake after climbing Mt. Shasta a couple weeks before.)

The timing was just right since the sun was beginning to set. I crossed the creek and found several excellent campsites where Gouda and Pepperjack had been. All of a sudden, the trail had a very familiar and comfortable feel to it. I recognized the peaks and the view. Strange to feel a sense of comfort in the wilderness, but I relished it nonetheless.

The site was perfect. No mosquitoes were present, I had a view of Lake Tahoe, the sun would greet me first thing in the morning from the East, and there was a raging stream a couple of hundred feet away. I carried the 12 pounds of water for nothing, but that was OK. I was going to cowboy camp, and eat an excellent dinner, the first one of the hike since I had enough water at last. My rhythm still felt off, but for the first time, the pleasure to pain ratio was beginning to increase...

Tahoe Rim Trail: Day 3

September 3, 2011: I survived the night, mosquitoes had me awake and packing up my gear at 6:30am. I was still deadly thirsty and had several miles to go to reach the next water source at Watson Lake.

I had one goal in mind this particular day: Take care of myself. If it became too sunny, I would cover exposed skin. Powder for chaffing. Tape immediately went on the feet when I felt any hot spots. Rehydrate, rehydrate, rehydrate. However, I was not looking forward to having to drink lake water. I have a hierarchy for water sources: 1.) spring. 2.) creek or stream. 3.) lake or pond 4.) river 5.) cesspool.

Indie called me a "water snob" on the PCT. I prefer the term "water connoisseur." Anyhow, to my delight, about a quarter mile before reaching Watson Lake, I heard the sound of running water. My soul leaped for the heavens when I saw a fresh, crystal clear, ice cold mountain stream rolling down the hillside. Water does a body and spirit good. I took a break by this stream for over a half an hour drinking as much water as I could. When hiking long distances, water and food take on new meaning. The body really feels like a machine, and water is like the oil that keeps the gears moving. Urine is the test whether or not enough water is inside the body. Most people assume urine is supposed to be yellow. While hiking, clear urine is the sign that the body is in good shape. Any discoloration is the sign to drink more. I drank until I "passed the test," and left the creek happy and relieved, no pun intended!

Now that I was hydrated, my next goal was not to hike too far. I passed Watson Lake (was glad I didn't have to drink that water) and hiked a few more miles until I found an excellent lunch spot with great views. I rested under a large pine tree after eating. My break was over an hour and a half. I was feeling better more and more.

After taking a short nap, some mountain bikers arrived at the top of the hill. After talking for a few minutes, I found out that one of the bikers had hiked the PCT back in 1999. After they left, I heard what sounded like a gunshot in the woods. A few minutes later, I hiked upon them and noticed that they were changing a flat tire on one of the bikes. Sure enough, the sound was from the rear tire exploding when it hit a rock on the trail the wrong way.

Later in the afternoon, I was lost in thought and saw another hiker coming towards me. Instantly, I recognized the face and said, "Adam Bradley!"

Adam had no idea who I was naturally. Adam co-holds the PCT speed record with Scott Williamson, having hiked the entire trail in 65 days, 9 hours, and 58 minutes! I recognized his face from pictures and his blog FSTPKR. He was super friendly, and gave me a lot of water tips. He hikes and runs around Tahoe often so it was good to get some expert advice.

Flyboxer and Krudmeister (Adam Bradley) above

I ended up setting up camp around 5:00. My goal was accomplished of taking it easy and taking care of my needs. All of a sudden I noticed a lot of buzzing inside my tarp. As it turned out, I set up my shelter right over an underground bees nest. They looked like bumblebees. They didn't seem to mind that I was there though. I decided to look for an alternative spot but couldn't find anything that would guarantee a good night's sleep. I decided to just let them be, no pun intended of course. I figured that if they didn't mind I was there, I didn't mind either. Thankfully, they, along with the mosquitoes, went to sleep shortly after the sun went down...