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Big fir |
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McGee Pass Trail |
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Hot, exposed climb into the high country |
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Old gnarly trees |
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arifacts |
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Granite country |
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Nice trailwork |
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appreciating trailwork and stairs |
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dry meadows |
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Big McGee Lake |
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Camp for the night at Big McGee Lake |
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Watching different shades of light off the mountains |
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Alpine glow |
Back in June, I was in contact with my old Appalachian Trail hiking friends Camo and Moosie. We decided to plan a trip into the Sierra Nevada in California as it appeared the pandemic was winding down and "normalcy" seemed within reach. Camo and I booked our flights for mid August. We would fly out to Reno Nevada, Moosie would pick us up , and the three of us would drive out to hike and camp for a week. By the end of July, the warning alarms were going off again, as the Delta variant was starting to rear its ugly head around the country. By the time our trip was set to go, I was having serious doubts and misgivings. We decided to take the gamble, and I found myself in an extremely busy airport, and later on a plane to Nevada.
Although extremely uncomfortable, the flight went off without a hitch, and my plane landed in an extremely smoky Reno. The surrounding mountains were obscured by a thick haze of smoke from the Dixie Fire. Moosie texted me that she had a family emergency to take care of and wouldn't be able to pick me up for a few hours. I found a bench outside the airport to sit on with my hiking pack in the shade, and people watched. When Moosie arrived, she told me what I had assumed was now a possibility: she would not be able to join Camo and I for the hike, but would drop us off at the trailhead instead, and pick us up 5 days later.
After picking up Camo from the airport the following day, the three of us drove down to a national Forest near Mammoth Lakes. The smoke was incessant the entire drive down from Reno, about three hours south. The Range of Light was transformed into the Range of Smoke. We camped one night in the national forest. The next day, Moosie drove us to the McGee Pass trailhead where she dropped Camo and I off.
We were bummed Moosie couldn't join us. She was also our Sierra guide, but there was no other option. She gave us a map, the itinerary and permits, and wished us "Good luck!"
The mountains looked intimidating, but welcoming at the same time. If there was one thing I knew about the Sierra, was that our weather was expected to be pretty good in August, despite the smoke. I didn't have the Rocky Mountain fear of severe thunderstorms after 1:00pm.
Camo and I were not in the best of shape. It was clear before we stepped on the trail that we were going to have to adjust the itinerary. Our first day had us hiking 12 miles up and over McGee Pass on the itinerary. We knew we were not hiking over the pass on our first day as it would include a 4,000 foot elevation gain and an entire day of hiking uphill up and over a 12,000 foot pass. We were not in shape nor acclimated. We decided to aim for Big McGee Lake.
The beginning of the hike was extremely hot and exposed, through sagebrush desert. We soon found ourselves hiking through aspen and a collection of old gnarly trees. We took our time, conscientious to stay hydrated. By lunch time, still hiking all uphill, we traveled through lodgepole pine forest, and gray clouds collected overhead, thankfully blocking out the sun. By afternoon, still traveling uphill, we entered granite country. Although dry, there was enough water around to refill our bottles when we needed to. By mid afternoon still hiking uphill, we made it to Big McGee lake where we decided to camp for the night. There were several other hikers camped around the lake, but it appeared they left open one of the best sites on the lake. Camo and I snagged it and set up camp. We spent the rest of the afternoon getting acclimated and watching the light change off the mountains. That crystal clear Sierra light was obstructed by a smoky haze, even in the high country. Despite this, it was still a gift to be back in the Sierra. I had a slight shortness of breath from the altitude, but overall felt pretty good. Camo and I achieved our goal of not overdoing our first day. We both agreed it might have been one of the longest climbs of our hiking "careers."
I tried to stay up after it got dark to see if I could see any meteors from the Persieds, but soon exhaustion took over, and I passed out in my tent.