Hiking the C&O: Day 1 (June 20, 2019)

Taking the metro down to Washington D.C. to begin the hike

To get to the start of the hike, I had to walk down the mall, past the monuments. Here is the U.S. Capitol.

I continued down the mall, past the Washington Monument.

...past the White House...

...and the WWII monument...

...towards the Lincoln Memorial...

...and the Vietnam Memorial...

….to the steps of the Lincoln Memorial...

...to the Potomac River (which would be my constant companion)...

...and finally to Georgetown, where the hike began on the C&O towpath.

Raspberries were ripening. Mother nature's candy.

Hot and steamy day...

First and only time seeing the Black Crowned Night Heron.

Lockhouse, where canal worker once lived and maintained lock transporting boats.

Kayak course

Camp for the night

Construction of the C&O canal began on July 4th, 1828. The goal was to build a man-made waterway next to the Potomac River, that would transport boats filled with goods from Washington D.C. all the way to the Ohio River. By the time construction ended in 1850, railroads had surpassed canals as the most effective method of transportation and the canal quickly became obsolete. The canal was only built to Cumberland, Maryland as a result. People continued to live and work along the canal until 1924 when the Potomac River flooded, closing the canal for good. For 30 years, the canal was left abandoned until U.S. Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas persuaded the federal government to preserve and protect the remains. In 1971, Congress established the Chesapeake and Ohio National Historical Park. 

I began my hike on June 20th, 2019 (the 10th anniversary of the beginning of this blog!) I wasn't particularly interested in the history of the canal, but wanted to connect to the Potomac River and Maryland's natural world during the summer. That being said, it's hard not to also connect to the human side of the canal and to think about what life was like for the builders, workers, boatmen, and people who worked and lived along the canal in bygone years. My goal was to hike all 184.5 miles from Washington D.C. to Cumberland, Maryland.

June 20th was a typical summer day in Maryland. I began the hike by taking the metro with my backpack down to Washington D.C. Everything went off without a hitch. Train wasn't too crowded, and before I knew it, I was walking out of Union Station and into the sunlight. I made my way over to the U.S. Capitol Building and then made a right hand turn down towards the Washington Monument along the mall. It was hot, but big trees made plenty of shade. I reminded myself to take it easy, I was in no rush. The mall took me past the museums, the Washington Monument, the white house, WWII memorial, and the Lincoln Memorial. Fantastic cumulus clouds began to form in the sky. Behind the Lincoln Memorial, I caught my first glimpse of the Potomac River, which would stay at my left hand side the rest of the trip. Before reaching the canal, I had to walk past the Kennedy Center, the Watergate Hotel, and finally into Georgetown where the canal began.

By the time I reached the canal, I was already tired! I wasn't really sure how far I wanted to go for the day, the closest hiker/biker campground was 16 miles away. There was no way I was going to make that. I did want to get as far away from the city as I could and find a stealth campsite along the river. I had a couple spots in mind, places I'd seen exploring the area in the past.

I ate lunch at a place called Fletcher's Cove that had glorious picnic tables. I also was able to buy a Gatorade there. It's always crucial to stay hydrated on day 1. It's also interesting to monitor one's "descent" into discomfort, or I should say comfort with the discomfort. A meal that would have been unacceptable just a few hours before, now tasted like a gourmet feast. A break spot that would have been sub par hours before might as well have been the Taj Mahal. A beverage that would have been taken for granted a day before, was now the finest champagne. 

After eating lunch, it was clear that I had to tape up my feet already as hot spots were forming. The canal is pretty much completely flat, but in most places, there are tiny rocks that compose the canal surface. Constantly walking on these rocks takes a toll on the feet. I was also a little concerned that the backs of my legs were already getting sun burnt. Hiking north, the sun was to my back most of the time, and my legs were getting too much sun.

By late afternoon, I was pretty much hurting all over. I was satisfied with the amount of space I had put between myself and the city. Finding a campsite never is easy for me though. I always get filled with anxiety about finding the right spot. Civilization, lots of it, was still breathing down my neck. When I could walk no more, I was fortunate to pretty much find the perfect spot. It felt hidden and secure. I cooked some dinner and watched as fireflies filled the forest with blinking lights. The constant hum of the highway was a little too close for comfort. My body was in pain, but I was very satisfied with day 1. I drank what water I could, downed a couple of Ibuprofen, and after years of tarp camping, was extremely grateful for a tent with walls to keep out the bugs. In moments I was in a deep sleep.