old grave right next to canal |
big oak |
Day 12 was my last full day on the towpath. My goal was to hike 12 miles to Evitts hiker/biker site at mile 180, the last campsite before the end of the C&O canal. It was hot as hell overnight. I woke up in the middle of the night to piss, and the fireflies in the field at camp were out of this world. I had never seen anything like it, just magical. When I woke up, it was obvious it was going to be another hot, hot day. I packed up and began looking for a place to eat breakfast and have coffee. The towpath veered far away from the river which didn't help my mood. The river is like a lifeline, it keeps me cool, calm, and clean. Eventually I had to give up on the idea of a river spot for breakfast and had to settle for a picnic bench near Oldtown. Around lunchtime, I began searching for a way to the river as it was always just out of reach, or no good path led to it. I found a small deer trail and had a heinous bushwhack to the river, filled with thorns, vines, and stinging nettles. Eventually, I made it to the river and it was a nice little alcove with a deep pool, perfect for a dip with little current. I stayed there for a couple of hours, as I didn't have far to go. After that, I had another frustrating bushwhack back to the towpath.
The closer I got to Cumberland, the closer civilization revealed itself. Eventually I was literally walking through people's backyards although still technically on the towpath. Storm clouds began to gather and thunder followed me along the way. Eventually I reached mile 180 and the last hiker/biker site. A homeless man was also camped there, but I decided to take my chances. Eventually, another couple arrived who were biking south. They were fellow long distance hikers who were trying out bike touring. It was great to share trail stories over dinner. Eventually, a full blown thunderstorm arrived and we had to retreat to our tents for the night. I fell asleep to the sounds of trains from the railyard close by. I also made reservations for a hotel room in Cumberland where I would finish my hike the following day.
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