Glacier National Park (July 9): Day 3

Camo and I on Triple Divide Pass

Camo and I got a good start on Day 3 of our hike through Glacier National Park on the Continental Divide Trail. We had to hike from Atlantic Creek to Red Eagle Lake FT, a manageable 11 miles. We had to hike over Triple Divide Pass to get there. Again I was worried about the snow situation and what we would encounter up there. Again, I was amazed at our perfect weather. The mountains felt so peaceful and inviting this time around. The first two to three miles were all uphill to the pass. Once again Camo and I realized how badly out of shape we were, having to stop numerous times to rest. We watched a family of mountain goats traverse the mountainside to our south. We had a break with a curious marmot who seemed to want to get dangerously close for some reason. We figured out the motivation a few minutes later. 

Curious Marmot

Mountain Goat Family

Camo and I eventually reached Triple Divide Pass. I was surprised and relieved to hardly see any snow up there. Actually, it seemed that most of the dangerous snow had already melted away, at least what we would encounter. The views were stunning, the air a perfect temperature, skies blue with a light breeze. Camo and I decided to take a nice break on top of the pass. Seems more often than not, my breaks in the past always have to be rushed on top of passes due to weather. Not this time. As we relaxed a while, a couple of marmots sneaked over to my pack and hiking poles. No big deal, this happens all the time out west. However, animals in Glacier are different. They seem to have no inhibitions. Within a minute, both marmots were on my pack licking off the salt. One of them grabbed one of my hiking poles and started nibbling on the wrist straps. I had never seen this behavior before so I decided to watch and see what would happen. Next thing I know, the marmot chewing the wrist band started getting all frantic, and then bolted down the mountain with my trekking pole in his mouth!
"Get back here!" I shouted.
Camo was laughing hysterically.
I chased the marmot a good thirty feet down the mountain but he was faster than I was. He dragged my hiking pole into a cluster of bushes and trees and the pole disappeared. I feared I had lost it for good. After searching a couple minutes, I found it deserted under one of the bushes. I felt betrayed. Marmots have always been one of my favorite alpine animals. I didn't know they were thieves!

Bull Moose

 Later in the day, I had another memorable encounter with an animal. Camo and I hiked down off Triple Divide Pass, crossed a couple of snowfields well off the summit that were easily traversed, and ended up in a lush forest. We both stopped to take a break next to a small creek and fill up our water bottles. Camo was sitting on one side of the creek, and I was sitting on the other, with my back to the trail, and sitting next to a small wall of green plants that offered a little shade. It was a peaceful spot, a perfect place to rehydrate. After sitting for ten minutes or so, Camo turned around and started packing up his pack. I was still taking sips of water. Next thing I know, I saw something dark in the corner of my eye. As I turned my head, there no more than 3 to 5 feet from where I was sitting, was a giant bull moose that had lumbered down the trail to the creek. I looked right into his giant, glistening brown eye, and said "SHIT!!!!!" I jumped up in a state of freight (with the knowledge that moose can be more dangerous than grizzlies given the right circumstances) while the moose also jumped up and managed to turn his enormous 700 pound body and head into the bushes.
"What?!!!" Camo asked.
"Moose!!! Look!!!!" I motioned to Camo, as the moose was exiting the scene.
We quickly scrambled up the trail to get to a safe distance. Camo managed to take a couple of quick photos.
"We'd better not linger too long and get out of here," Camo suggested.
I agreed and we hiked on, my heart still racing, thankful I hadn't been trampled by that moose.

Thieving Marmot

Camo and I reached Red Eagle Lake in the afternoon. There were several other people camped for the night, including a rather large group of college kids. There was plenty of space along the shores of the lake thankfully. I found a spot under a pine tree and just had one of those moments that can seem so rare in the mountains sometimes. The air temperature was perfect, no mosquitoes, a slight warm breeze blowing through the pine needles, sun shining, and bugs and birds dancing along the lake, flying back and forth just above the water surface. The world felt at peace, and it was nice to feel it for once. I rested on my sleeping pad perfectly comfortable.

The only time I used the ice axe and probably didn't need it. A small snowfield well below Triple Divide Pass.

It had been a memorable day in the mountains. 11 miles a day seemed just about right in our current hiking shape. We had about 13 miles scheduled for the next day, but it would be mostly flat. So far, so good...